Italian luxury fashion house Valentino made a captivating comeback at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, reverting to a men-only format and showcasing its collection in the heart of the city’s fashion scene. Renowned for its women’s and couture collections presented in Paris, the brand celebrated its roots by highlighting men’s fashion on the runway once again. The show took place in the inner courtyard of the University of Milan, with the presence of enthusiastic students among the audience.
Under the creative direction of Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino unveiled a striking collection that combined elements of sophistication and contemporary flair. The runway witnessed the fusion of Bermuda shorts with slim-fitting jackets, relaxed silhouettes paired with loose-fitting tops and trousers, and the addition of long coats to complete the ensembles. The collection’s accessories featured standout pieces such as vintage 50s skinny ties, handbags in vibrant colours like yellow, red, and fuchsia, and eye-catching earrings.
Valentino acknowledged the evolving notions of masculinity in society, stating that “a changed culture and a shifted society re-evaluate our notion of the masculine, and the garments that clothe it.”
The Italian men’s fashion industry experienced remarkable growth last year, with revenues surging by 20.3% to reach €11.3 billion ($12.3 billion). This growth was largely driven by strong export figures, which rose by 24.8% to €8.3 billion. The Italian Chamber of Fashion expressed optimism about the future, anticipating a prosperous year for the fashion industry in 2023. The sector recorded a 15.3% increase in sales during the first quarter, leading to an upward revision of the annual growth target from four to five percent.
Milan Men’s Fashion Week, showcasing the Spring/Summer 2024 collections, promises an exciting line up of more than 70 events. Breaking free from the virtual formats necessitated by the Covid-19 pandemic, the majority of the shows will be presented in person. Fashion powerhouses like Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Armani, and Zegna are set to captivate fashion enthusiasts with 22 spectacular catwalk shows, promising spectacle, excitement, and an exuberant celebration of fashion.
This season’s notable debut is Andersson Bell, a Seoul-based brand that harmoniously merges Korean street style with Scandinavian minimalism. The brand gained significant popularity in 2019 when Jungkook, the lead singer of the South Korean K-pop group BTS and an avid fan, sported the brand’s sneakers.
While some notable names, including Versace, Moschino, and Missoni, are absent from Milan Fashion Week, Fendi opted for a different approach by showcasing its men’s collection at the Pitti Uomo show in Florence. Fendi’s show took place within the workshops of its new leather goods factory, creating a unique ambiance surrounded by machinery and skilled artisans.
The collections featured a range of fabrics, including linen, cotton, leather, and silk, in a colour palette inspired by the tranquil Tuscan landscape. The subdued hues of terracotta, sage green, ecru, and brown exuded an understated elegance synonymous with Fendi’s aesthetic.
Milan Men’s Fashion Week promises an exhilarating showcase of style, craftsmanship, and innovation, reinforcing the city’s position as a global fashion capital.